Buttonhole stitching or overseaming machine



5 sheets-#sheet 1.

(No Model.)

.J. REEGE. BUTTONHOLB- STITGHING 0R OVBRSEAMING MACHINE.

Patented Aug.. 20, 1895;

(No Model.) sheets-Sheet 2.

J.REECE. BUTTDNHOLE STITGHING 0R OVBRSEAMING MACHINE.

No. 544,827. Patented Aug. 20, 1895.

awww/hoz @yung/50% 707ML R966@ (No Model.) 5 sheets-sheet 3.

J. REBGE.

BUTTONHOLB STITGHING 0B. UVERSEAMING MACHINE. No. 544,827. Patented Aug. 20,1895.

(No Model.) 5 Sheets-Sheet 4.

J. REEGB.v

BUTTONHOLBSTITGHING 0R OVERSBAMINGMAGHINE. Nox544,827. Patented Aug. 20, 1895.

lll/111D V f (No Model.) 5 Sheets-Sheet 5.

J. REBCE.

BUTTONHOLE STITGHING 0R OVBRSEAMING MACHINE.

N0. 544,827. Patented Aug. 20, 1895.-

UNITED STATE- sj PATENT OFFICE..

JOHN REECE, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS.

BUTTONHOLE STITCHING'OR OVERSEAMING MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 544,827, dated August 20, 1895. Application filed February l1, 1887. Serial No. 227,269. (No model.)

T all whom, t may concern:

Be it known that I, JOHN REECE, of Boston,

y countyof Suffolk, and State of Massachusetts,

have invented an Improvement in Button hole Stitching or Overseaming Machines, ot' which the followingdescription, in con nection Withthe accompanying drawings, is a specilication, like letters and iigures on the drawings representing like parts.

This invention relates to sewing-machines for automatically overstitching the cut edges of a buttonhole while held in a clamp, the stitching covering not only the straight edges, but also the edges of the eyed end of the buttonhole. The stitch-forming mechanism herein to be described is carried byastitch-frame, and the clamp for holding the work containing the slit for the buttonhole is connected to a clamp-frame, and to enable the stitching to be done inthe proper lines in conformity with the shape ofthe eyed buttonhole the relative vmovements of the stitch-frame having the stitch-formingmechanism and the clampframe having the work-clamp are'such as to enable the two straight sides of the slit to be stitched during relative longitudinal movements ot' the stitch-frame and clamp-frame in the direction of the length ot' the buttonholeslit, the relative rotation ot' the stich-for1ning mechanism and clamp enabling the stitching to be made about the eyed end of the buttonhole, the diderence between the width of the eyeand ofthe straightpartof the slit being produced by combining the longitudinal and lateral movements.4 The material having the slit which is to be overstitched for the formation of abuttonhole, as herein provided for, Will be held between the jaws of a work-clamp, substantiallysuch as represented inUnited States Patent No. 349,359, heretofore granted tome, and the stitch-forming mechanism and the throat-plate employed to support the said material at the stitch-making point betweenthe jaws of the clamp are made to operate along one straight side of the buttonhole to its eyed end, where the stitch-forming mechanism has given to it a rotary movement to radiate the stitches about the eyed end of the buttonholen slit, and thereafter the stitch-forming mech anism is operated to stitch along the other straight side of the buttonhole, all as usual; but herein, as the opposite or small end of the buttonhole is reached, the throat-plate, which up to this time has had a movement in a straight line, then a semicircular or rotative movement, and a return movement in a straight line for theopposite side of the slit, has vgiven to it automatically a lateral movement, substantiallyat right angles to the straight-line movement referred to, to permit the small end of the slit to be barred, as Will be described.' During the barring operation the throatplate is left in the position in which it Awas put by the lateral motion referred to, the stitch-forming mechanism having also been moved laterally with thethroat-plate, and the lateral movement ot' the needle-bar is increased automatically in the direction opposite that iu which the throat-plate was moved, thus making the barring-stitches longer than those along the side edges ot' the slit, and when the barring has been finished the movement of the stitch-forming mechanism is stopped automatically.

Automatically giving to the needle greater lateral throwor vibration during the barring or completion of the small end of the buttonhole and While the throat-plate is held in the position in which it was moved laterally, as described, is au important and essential feature of my present invention, for, prior to my invention, I am not aware that such automatic lateral movements were ever beforeeffected to thereby enable the end of the but tonhole to be automatically barred on the machine employed to overstitch its edges and eyed end.

In the machine to be herein described the two operations of overstitching and barring are substantially continuous, and the barring having been completed the machine is made to come to rest automatically. I

The stitch-forming mechanism represented herein consists, essentially,of an eye-pointed thread carrying needle located above the material and a looper located below the material, the edge to be overstitched being supported at the stitch-making point by a throat` plate, which progresses about the buttonhole-slit, the relative positions ot' the throatplate and work-clamp being thus constantly changed during the overstitching of the buttonhole. The needle referred to, besides its .motion of reciprocation vertically', is also ICO -moved laterally to thus enable it to descend alternately through the fabric andthen over the edge thereof. The needle-bar has co-operatiug with it, in the case in which the needle-bar reciprocates, devices by which the lateral movement of the needle-bar is automatically increased when the buttonhole is to be barred. The needle referred to has co-op- @rating with it a peculiar looper and a loopspreader, the looper having practically two points; but for the sake of simplicity of description I shall designate one of the said pointsas the heet The point of the looper is that which takes the loop of needle-thread passed through the material, while the heel takes the loop Aof needle-thread which-is formed by the descent of the needle over the edge of the material, the said looper having between its point and heel on thelneedle side a bulging surface, which'y'acts to spread each loop entered by the point of thelooper, holding the said loop spread so that the needle in its next descent over the edge of the material may enter the said loop without fail, the loop of thread taken from the needle as it descends over the edge of the material being entered and held by the heel of the looper -until the said loop passes back upon the shank of the looper to the rear of the point, andwhile the loop of thread taken from the needle by the heel is so held the needle again descends through the material and between the said loop and the point of the looper, when the looper is caused to enter the loop then projecting from the eye of the needle, drawing the said loop through the loop then held on the shank and previously taken from the needle by the heel of the looper. Between 'the time that the needle rises above the material and its lateral movement to descend over the edge of the material a loop-spreader located helowthe needle-throat is moved toward the edge of the material and is stopped with its needle-guide in line with the descending needle, so that the loop previously taken by the point of the looper and spread, not only by the bulging surface of the looper, but also by the movement of the loop-spreader, is held open under the descending needle close to the edge of the material, so as to be entered by the said needle,and, the needle having descended through the loop of thread held by the looper, the loop of needle -thread is quickly entered by the heel of the looper, the heel of the looper passing through the said loop, causing the loop to surround the shank of the looper back of its point, where it is held, as described, while theneedle completes its ascent and descends through the material, as before described. The needle at each as.- cent aids in drawing up the loop made at its previous descent.

To properly overstitch the edge of the material to form abuttonhole or other over-stitching by one thread carried by an eye-pointed needle requires that the needle-thread be ma* nipulated very carefully, so that it may be given up and also held at the proper time, and, in accordance with my invention, lI have provided means whereby the needle-thread, between the top of the needle-bar and the spool from which the needle-thread is taken, is substantially relieved from tension while the needle-bar descends, the needle-thread being clamped and held by a clamping-tension located between the top of the needle-bar and the spool about as the needle completes its descent, the thread being held until the needle-bar has finished its ascent. By leaving the thread so that it may pass freely through the clamping-tension while the needle de-A scends and clamping it while the needle ascends, and by a peculiar arrangement of lthread-guides to be described, through which the needle -thread is passed between the clampingetension and the eye of the needle, I am enabled,during each descent of the needle, to draw off from the spool a sufficient amount of needle-thread for the stitch to be made, the amount of thread so drawn off being variable, according to the thickness of the material and the width of the overstitching.

One part of my invention consists in abuttonh0le-sewing machine containing the following instrumentalities-viz., a work-clamp, a throat-plate, stitch-forming mechanism containing as one member thereof a verticallyreciprocating and laterally-movable bar and needle, devices to automatically actuate said parts for the production of a series of overedge stitches along the two sides and about one end of a buttonhole, and to relatively change the positions of the stitch-forming mechanism, throat-plate, and work-clamp to effect the automatic production of a series of stitches across the small end of a buttonhole exceeding in length the stitches along either side of said buttonhole and to constitute a bar therefor, substantially as will be described, and I have also combined with said instrumentalities devices to automatically stop the machine at the completion of the barring operation.

My invention also consists in a buttonholesewing machine containing the following instrumentalities-viz., a work-clamp stitchf forming mechanism, means to rotate said stitch forming mechanism -while stitching about the curvedl end of a buttonhole, and devices to automatically actuate, said parts for the production of a series of overedge stitches along the two sides and about one end of a buttonhole and to relatively change the positions of the stitch-forming mechanism, throat, and Worlcclamp to effect the automatic production of a series of stitches across the small end of a buttonhole, which stitches shall exceed in length the stitches along either side the said buttonhole, to thus constitute a bar therefor, substantially as will be described.

Other features of my invention will be hereinafter more fully described, and specified at the end ot' the specification.

IOO

IIO

. show some of the Working parts. Fig. 1a isa sectional detail showing part of the casing a4 with its projecting bracket, together with a i part of the camj and the cutting mechanism and supporting mechanism cooperating with the Workclamp, said parts being mostly omitted from Fig. 1. detail in' the line y y, Fig. 17. Fig. 2 is a front elevation and partial section of Fig. 1 in the line w'. Figs. 2a, 2b, and 2C are respectively a side elevation, a top view 4of the looper, and a section thereof in the line m2..

Fig. 3 is a sectional detail taken through the needle-bar guiding mechanism and the mechanism chiefly instrumental in givingto the needle-bar its'lateral movement. Fig. 4t is a section of Fig. 3 in the dotted line x3. Fig.

.5 is a section of Fig. 3 in the dotted line m4.

Fig. 6 is an inner side view of the lowerguide for the needle-bar and the slide-block in which it works. Fig. 7 is a rear side view of the slide-block di. Fig. 7 is an elevation show 'ing the inner side of the lower endof the -sleeve by which the slide-block is made to move and a section l thereof in the line m5. Fig. 8 is a detail showing the needle, throatplate, the looper, the upright or post on which it is carried, and the loop-spreader. Fig. 8*"L shows the collar h1 separately. Fig. 9 is a view of Fig. 8, looking at it from the right, the

, shank hg being broken oif. Fig. 9a is a View of Fig. S, looking at it from the left, but with the looper removed and the shank hg broken off. Fig. 9b shows different views, enlarged, of the loop-spreader detached. Fig. 10 is a separate view showing the lever d20, instrumental in moving the sleeve by which the increased lateral throw of the needle-bar is automatically effected. Fig. 11 is a detail of the sector and partial gear instrumental in rotating the needle-bar. Fig. 11n shows the sector e2. Fig. 12 is atop view of the camwheelj, the said figure showing in cross-section the rest d32 and pin w21, actuated by its rotating cam-surfaces. Fig. 12a is a partial under side view of the said cam-wheel. Fig. 13 is a partial rear side elevation of the upper part of the machine, the framework being broken out. Fig.l 14 is a section of Fig. 12 in the line x6. Fig. 15 shows the cam n.20 developed and the pin nnen it. Fig. 16 shows the cam 133 developed and the rest (132, actuated by it.; Fig. 17, a detail of the work-clamp omitted from Figs. 1 and 2. Fig. 18 is a detail showing the lever ts.

The stitch-frame a, adapted to support the stitch-forming mechanism; the stud jt, connected therewith; the cam-Wheel j, having at its upper side the cam-groove 6, which is en Fig. 1b is a sectional.

tered by said stud and at its under side the cam-grooves 4 and 7; the casing a4; the clam pframe a', provided with grooves h; the main shaft a2; the needle-lever c; the needle-bar b; the needle d; the thread-guide d10," the sectors e c; the rod e4 to connect their.; the

gear Q7," the rock-shaft l, having arms Z2 and Z; the roller-studs Z314, (shown by dotted lines, Fig. 1 the work-clamp composed of the under members or plates m, havingattached ser.

rated members or plates m2, and of upper serrated members m', pivoted on the pivoted fingers 22, having depending L-shaped links 26, said fingers being normally kept elevated by springs 25, and roller-studs 65, carried by said plates m; springs 63 to hold said rollerstuds against the outer sides ot' the spreaderl n; and the arms 29, attached to rock-shaft 30 and provided with springs 2S to engage the depending-links 26; the cam-lever 33, having the pin'35; the spring 36, co-operating with said pin; spring-latch 37; trigger-leverD; the lever g; lever A moved by it; the throatplate C; the cam projection 57, rotated in unison with the cam j; the cutter-lever G, piv'oted at G on the stitch-frame and provided with a cutter G2;'th`e cutter-block G3, with which it co-operates to cut a slit in the material while held in the work-clamp, and the spreader n, carried by said casing a4, are all substantially as represented by like letters in United States Patent No. 349,359, granted to me September 21, 1886, with the exception that the shape of the cam-grooves in the cam disk or wheelj has been altered, as Will be hereinafter described, to adapt them for the work to be done by the machine. v

The machine to be herein described is adapted to stitch a buttonhole or do overedge lstitching by means of asingle thread, and, as

my invention is herein illustrated, I have provided to hold the material in a stationary clamp while the stitch-frame vcarrying the stitch-forming mechanism is actuated, as provided for in said patent., to carry the throatplate and stitch-forming mechanism along the IIO straight side of the buttonhole-slit and about the eyed endandbackalong thesecondstraight side thereof; and, this done, the machine herein to be described is further operated, whereby the lateral throw of the needle is automatically increased, and simultaneously with the first increased lateral throw of the needle-bar the throat-plate and frame carrying the stitch-forming mechanism are moved laterally in a direction opposite that in which the needle-baris moved when its lateral throw is increased, and the said frame, carrying the throat-plate C which supports the material at thestitch-making point, is then held temporarily still, or substantially so, while from one to four or five stitches are made to bar the small end of the buttonhole and iinish the same upon the machine.

The eye-pointed needle d, to carry the thread fto be used in the formation of the stitch, is

connected in usual manner to the lower end of the needle-bar b', which is flattened for part of its length, as best seen in Fig.

The needle-bar near its upper end slides in a ball-and-socket bearing, as d2, and below the said bearing the needle-bar has attached to it, between suitable collars or projections thereon, a hub d3, having au ear d4, (see Fig. 4,) through which is extended a screw d5, by which the said hub is connectedloosely to the forked front end of a slide-pin d, having a round shank which enters loosely a hole in the front end of the needle-bar actuatinglever o, common to my said patent, and which may be actuated by devices such as therein shown.

The llattened portion of the needle-bar has its lower bearing in a grooved swivel-block di, (see Figs. 3, 5, and 6,) the said block having a projection d8 to enter loosely ahole in an auxiliary 'slide-block C19, the said auxiliary slideblock having at its rear side a diagonal projection d100, which enters a diagonal groove CP2, (see Fig. 7%) made in the inner 'side of a zone-shaped projection dlg, (see Fig. 5,) forming part of a sleeve S, which is made to reciprocate vertically in the casing C114, having a shouldered tubular shank 62.15, fitted loosely into the lower bearing, as dw, of the overhanging arm of the stitch-frame a, the said shank having fast to it below the said bearing the gear d, which is engaged and rotated by the sector e, common to my said patent, the saidcasing and its contained parts being rotated in one direction as the large end or eye of the buttonhole is being stitched, and being turned in the opposite direction by said sector after the completion of the barring of the buttonhole, to thus put Ythe needle back into starting position or the position to commence stitching the straight side of a buttonhole. Above the bearing d1 the shank d referred to has fast to it a collar CPS, the latter vpreventing the casing from dropping down. The sleeve S referred to is inserted into this casing du from its lower end, the tubular shank d of the said sleeve being passed loosely upward through the shank elli of the said casing where the upper end of the shank d19 is exposed to be acted upon by thesleevedepressing lever d20, having its fulcrum at d21 inthe frame a. The length of the larger portion of the sleeve below the shoulder Z22 is such as to permit the sleeve to be moved vertically in the casing rtl4. (See Fig. 3.)

The sleeve near its lower end at one side is cutaway, leaving an open space, into which is fitted a zoneshaped bearing-block dis, bored lin the direction of its length, (see Figs. 3 and 5,) to receive a spiral spring C124, the upper end of which rests against the shoulder (ZEG (see Fig. 7a) of the sleeve, while its lower end rests against a plate dw, attached to the lower end of the said casing d, the spring thus held normally acting to lift the sleeve When the latter is depressed by the lever d20.

The length of the block (Z9 is in excess of the diameter of the casing and is guided in slots in the said casing, as shown in Figs. l and 5, and the said block is reciprocated longitudinallyin the said casing by theinclined projection d100, as the sleeve S is made to ascend and descend, the ascent of the sleeve causing the slide dg to be moved in such direction as to carry the needle-bar guide @Z7 and the lower end of the needle-bar back away from the edge of the material to be stitched` the descent of the sleeve moving the block d in the opposite direction. The movement of the block df is made to take place at such time, with relation to the reciprocations of the needle-bar in the needle-bar guide CF, as to cause the needle d at one descent to enter material to be overstitched and at the next descent to pass over the edge of the material. The lever d20 at its rear end, as herein shown, has a binding-screw CPS, (see Fig. 10,) which is extended through a slot (see Fig. l) of a lever di, having its fulcrum on the stud 0121.

The rear end of the lever d carries a roll dal), which is adapted to be struck by a cam C131, (see Figs. l and 13,) fast on -the shaft a2, the said shaft being located substantially the same as in my said patent. The lever C129 is so adjusted with relation to the lever d20 and the sleeve S, which by its rise and fall causes the lateral movement of the needle-bar, that the said roll CX30, when on that part of the said cam of greatest radius, will place the needle d concentric with the center of the casing tlm. To provide for an increased throw of the needle-bar laterally for one or more stitches at the small end of the buttonhole, to thus bar it, I have provided a rest d, which acts as a stop forthe inner end of the lever d20 so long as the stitching is being done along the sides of the buttonhole-slit and about the large eye or where the overstitching is to be of uniform width; the roll d50 at such time not being acted upon by the entire periphery of the cam dsl, for the rest arrests the movement of the said roll toward the center of the said cam so that the cam fails to move the lever for adistance equal to the full throw which may be given by the said cam; but when the stitching arrives at the end of the second straight side of the buttonhole-slit the rest CX32 is lowered through a cam-ring dsa at the upper side of the cam-wheelj, so that the roll da is permitted to come in contact with the periphery of the cam at a point nearer its center, which enables the sleeve, acted upon by the spring d, to rise to a higher point than when the stitching was being done along the straight side of the buttonhole, such increase in the ascent of the sleeve moving the slideblock d over a greater distance, which causes the needle-bar to move laterally fora greater distance. The shape of the cam-ring F3 is such that the rest remains depressed long enough to enable one or more, preferably four, stitches to be made for barring, when the machine is stopped automatically by mechanism substantially such as described in my said patent, the said stopping mechan- IOO IIC

ism diering, however, therefrom, as will be described, to properly co-operate with this present machine.

The extra longitudinal throw 4of the slideblock d, to effect an increase in the lateral movement of the needle-bar, takes place pret'- erably as the sleeve referred to rises under the spring dit; but when this increased lateral throw of the needle-bar takes place as the needle-bar in its ascent leaves the slit at the end of the second straight side of the slit it is obvious, Without other provision than has been made, that; the needle, at its next descent, would pass throughthe material back ofthe edge thereof last'to be stitched for the excess of its throw, which is notdesired. On the contrary, itis desired that the needle, at its next descent, should penetrate the mate rial atthe same .distance back from what would be the edge of the buttonhole if the slit was prolonged.

To'counteract the difficulty referred to, I have so shaped the cam-groove 7 (see Fig. 12) at the lower side of the canrwheelj as to cause the stitch-frame a and throatplate C to be moved in a direction opposite that in which the block di was moved when the stroke was increased, such change of position of `the stitchlframe and throat-plate at just the time that the rst bar-stitch is tobe made resultl 'ing in causing the needle to descend at its rst thrust, after the lateral throw ofthe needle-bar has been increased, at just tho same distance back from the line of the edge of the slit as it descended at its previous downthrust through the material; but atits next down-thrust, instead of penetrating the material in theline of the slit, the needle penetrates the material preferably at a distance beyond the slit equal tothe distance of the overstitching at the first side of the buttonhole back y from its edge. Y

Having shown one way of automatically effecting an increased lateral throw for the needle-bar for barring or finishing the end of a buttonhole,I wish to state thatIdo not desire to limit my invention to the exact devices shown for effecting such barring movement, as instead thereof I may employ any other well-known mechanical devices capable of operating in like manner; nor do I desire to limit Inyinvention to giving to theneedle-bar its increased lateral throw as it rises from the slit or over the edge, for the said increased lat eral throw might be made to take place as the needle rises from'the material back from the edge, and in such event the lateral movement given to the arm a, as just stated, might be omitted. The cam-wheelj in its rotation, acting through the cam-groove 6 and study, ef`

fects intermittingly the relative changes of position of thestitch-frameaand throatfplate and clamp-frame c'to enable the stitching to be done along one side of the buttonholeslit, and then about the eyed end thereof, and then back along the other side of the buttonholeslit, and this is effected without rotating the work-clamp holding the material to be stitched. Herein the cam-groove 6 is somewhat altered in shape, viz: It has a rest, as 6X, (see Fig. 12,) so that as the buttonhole is to be barred, as herei'nbefore described, the frame carrying the stitching mechanism may be stopped for a sufficient time to make the necessary number of bar-stitches, one-being above the other.

The cam-ring @Fiss herein shown, is arranged outside the cam 57 common to my said patent, which cam in operation actuates the cutting mechanism.

The rest di, as herein shown, consists essentially of a rod supported by across-head d4, the cross-head having a toe-piece d, which rests on the cam-ring d. Y

The looper 7i (shown best in Figs. 2 .and 2b, where it is enlarged) is composed essentially of an arm, cut or shaped substantially' as described, to form a shank with a tapering beak h', the beakstarting from the point h2, the sharp end of the beak constituting the heel h3 of the looper, the point h*1 of the looper be ing extended` in adirection opposite the heel, therebeing between lthe-heel and the point (see Fig. 2b) a bulging portion h5, which, as the point of the looper enters the loop extended from the side of `the needle which` has just penetrated the material back from its edge preparatory to drawing the said loop out and holding it extended across the buttouholeslit substantially at a right angle to the edge, spreads the saidl loop and holds it open for the passage through it of the needle d in its next descent over the edge, the said needle at such time descending close to the edge.

After the needle has descended over the edge and passed through the loop taken from the needle when it last descended through the material and through the loop, spread as described, the movement of the looper is reversed, so that the heel 71,3 thereof is made to enter the loop of thread at the eyeof the needle, the latter being in the slit and below the tinued in the same direction until the said t loop reaches the base of the beak, and while the loop taken from the needle in the slit is so held the needle again descends, but this time through the material. At this descent the needle does not enter the loop held by the looper, but descends into the hollow interior hQof the looper-shank ata point between the point h4 of the looper and the loop of needle- ICO IIO

thread then held on its shank, and thereafter Y the motion of the looper is reversed and the point h4 thereof first enters the loop of needlethread just formed back from the edge and draws the said loop across the slit at right angles and through the loop then held onthe looper.

'lhe looper-shank has at its lower end a hollow hub hf", which receives through it a ful- Crum-screw h?, the latter entering the standard hs, erected upon the oscillating post b9, which post is substantially the same as the post A8 in my said patent, the post entering the long sleeve-like hub of the gear Q7, engaged and Yactuated by the sector e2, the said gear and sector being common to my said patent, so they need not be herein further described.

The hollow hub h6 of the looper receives upon it a collar h10,havinga pin or projection it, (see Figs. 8 and 8%) which pin, during the latter part of the movement of the looper when the point h4 is drawing the loop just taken by it from the needle through the loop then held in the beak and on the shank of thel looper, as before described, acts against the lower end of the loop-spreader glo, pivoted on the standard hs, (see Figs. 9"L and 9E) the said loop-spreader having a stud-like shank Q13 attached to it, which is extended through the said standard, where it is surrounded by a spiral spring g4, fast at one end to the said standard and at its other end in the said shank.

f The upper end of the loop-spreader is provided with`a finger Q15, which has atits front.

edge a notch, as Q16, through which the needle d passes at each descent through the buttonhole-slit, the lower side of the finger having about the said notch a teat gw, (see Fig. 92) at each side of which teat lies one bight or half of the loop of thread coming from the material and held by the point of the looper in order that the needlecl in its descent through the buttonhole-slit or over the edge may enter the said loop unerringly, the said teat constituting a spreader located in the said loop.

The edge of the finger 6115, at each side the notch g1, has notches Q18, one for each bight or half of the loop held by the point of the looper, and spread as described.

After the point h4 of the looper has taken the loop of needle-thread from the needle and the needle is drawn up through the material and the looper has nearly finished its movement toward that edge of the material then being overstitched, the loop-spreader referred to comes into operation, its function being to act upon both sides or halves of the said loop between the loop and the material, so that the teat g17 of the looper shall enter between the two halves of the loop and spread it close up to the material in order that the loop may be presented wide open close to the edge of the slit and in such condition that the needle d may enter the said loop close to the edge of the material, the loop-spreader, constructed and operating as described, enabling the slit to be very narrow and yet insure the needle always entering the said loop. This loopspreader also obviates the necessity of spreading the buttonhole-slit so widely. is connected by link g2? with an elbow-lever, herein marked A', it being substantially the same as the lever marked by like letter in my said patent, and in practice it will be operated by a lever g common to the said patent. Herein the link Q24, connected to the inner end of the lever g, instead of being actu- The looper ated by an eccentric in an eccentric-strap, such as in my said patent, is provided at its upper end with a roller-stud, as Q25, (shown in dotted lines, Figs. l and 13,) which enters a cam-groove, also shown by dotted lines in the said figures, the said groove being made in a y cam-wheel Q26, fast to the shaft a2, which occupies substantially the saine position as the like shaft in my said patent and constitutes the main shaft of the machine.

In practice the material to be stitched will be held in a clamp, preferably such as shown in my said patent and in Figs. 17 and lb, wherein like parts are designated by like letters and figures, the said clamp being herein shownl separately to avoid confusion of the drawings, and for like reason I have omitted vfrom Fig. l the mechanism for cutting the buttonhoie-slit, but in practice it will, as has been before stated, be the same as in the said patent.

The thread t, preferably taken from a spool t', is led through a guide p13, through an eye in a slack-forming arm p12, then through a clamping-tension 152, thence through a vertically-adjustable fork-shaped shelf t3, thence through an eye at the top of the needle-bar, out through a guide d10, and down through other guides to the eye of the needle d, as in my said patent. The shelf t3 may be held in adjusted position by the screw 154. (See Fig. l.)

The clamping-tension herein shown consist essentially of two disks, one of which is supported on the tube-like standard i5, while the other is secured to a rod is, havi'nga collar which is acted upon by a spring '57 to normally keep the two y disks pressed on the thread passing between them, the spring being made to exert such pressure as to produce the proper tension for stitching. The rod t is, however, extended downward, and its lower end rests upon a lever t8 pivoted at t on the frame a, the said lever during each descent of the needle-bar being acted upon by the cam-shaped periphery of the cam g2, the said lever 758, shown separately, (see Fig. 18,) having a roller 1510 held on a pivot between ears forming part of it.

When the lever t8 is lifted the needle-thread is left free from tension, so that the operator, whenever the machine is stopped, which always happens when the needle-bar is descending, may find the thread free from tension,thus permitting the work to be readily removed. This absence of tension on the needle-thread during its descent is also of especial advantage, as I will now describe. In practice I adjust the shelf t3 vertically until itis in such thread in it'is in its highest position. This IIO 4 l 544,827.. t 'i r I done, itwill be seen that inthe descent ofthe needle and in the absence of material, such as cloth or leather, on the throat-plate C, the eye of the needle in the descent of the latter will not pull thread from the spool. Supposing the free end of the thread beyond the eye of the needle to be held at the throatplate by the material, as it will be in sewing, it will be seen that when the needle is at its lowest point a loop of thread will be distended or formed below the surface of the throat-plate.

In all operations of stitching or sewing by my machine the length of the loop so formed below the top of the throat-plate will be substantially as stated; but it will be obvious that when material, such as cloth orleather, is laid upon the throat-plate under the needle, the latter in its descent and afterthe eye has passed substantially through the material will and must act to draw from the spool a length of thread equal to substantially twice the thickness of the material at tho point where the needle is then in it.

The length of loop formed in the manner described will, it will be seen, be varied automatically according to varying thicknesses of material, and .just enough extra thread for each stitch will be drawn off from the spool, as required.

The method-herein described of pulling ott theproper amount of thread for each stitch maybe practiced to advantage in any ordinary sewing-machine.

In order that the thread may rend freely from the spool and tension, which latter is open when the loop is being formed belowthe material, the slack-forming arm p12 will be drawn down during each ascent of the needle-bar while the clamping-tension is closed, and as a result thereof a quantity of thread sufficient for the maximum length of loop to be ymade willbe drawn from the spool between it and the clampingftension,'where it will be left slack until wanted. This arm p12 is attached to the rear end of the lever c.

The lever c, at its rear end, has joined to it an eccentric link rm, which embraces an eccentric frz, having fast to it a pinion T13, which is engaged by a toothed gear r, fast on the `main shaft a2, the eccentric being free to rotate on a stud rl.

The base of the frame a has erected upon it a bearing S10 (see Fig. l) for the end of a shaft a2, and within the machine the said shaft has placed upon it aguide-block S12, (see Fig. 13,) in which is planed a slot to receive the link Q24, such block insuring proper vertical motion to the said link as its roll is acted upon by the cam which actuates vthe said link.

The machine described in the patent reierred to, as well asthe machine shown in the accompanying drawings, has a stopping-arm 74 attached to arock-shaft 7l, having secured to it an arm 70. In the said patent the arm isprovided with a toe which runs upon a controller-bar,A which is adjustable longitndinally on the bed-plateor clamp-frame a to, by its position, effect the stopping of the machine when stitching along the last straight side of the buttonhole has been finished. Herein I `have dispensed with the controllerbar, and in place of it I have provided the cam-wheelj at its upper side with a camring 71,20, and I have provided the base of the stitch-frame a with a hole to receivea pin 9121, which is placed immediately below the end of the arn1'70, so that the cam-ring n2@ in itsv rotation may be made to let the pin drop and permit'the arm 70 to descend under the action of a spring at just the time that it is desired to move the arm 74 to enable it to cooperate With a friction or clutch pulley, substantially such as described in my United States Patent No. 367,063, dated July 26, i887, to effect the stopping of the stitch-forming mechanism. A portion of the said cam-ring n2, as shown at 4X., is so shaped as to lift the pin nuto start the movement of the stitching mechanism at the proper time.

The stitching operation will be just the same whether the clamp-frame be held in fixed position and the stitch frame travel, or whether the stitch-frame be held at rest, for

.in the latter event the rotation ofthe camwheelj would effect the reciprocation of the clamp-frame longitudinally.

Having' described my invention, what I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is

1. A button-hole sewing machine containing the following instrumentalities, viz.:-a workclamp; a throat-plate; stitch forming mechanism, containing as one member thereof a vertically reciprocating and laterally movable needle bar and needle; and devices to automatically actuate said parts for the production of a series of overedge stitches along the two sides and about `one end of a button-hole and to relatively7 changethe positions of the stitch-forming mechanism, throat, and work-clamp, to eect the automatic production of a series of stitches across the small IIO end ofthe button-hole exceeding in length the stitches along either side of said button-hole, and to constitute a bar therefor, substantially as described.

2. A button-hole sewing machine containing the following instrumentalities, viz:-a work-clamp; a throat-plate; stitch-forming mechanism containing as one member thereof a vertically reciprocating and laterally movable needle-bar and needle; devices to automatically actuate said parts for the production of a series of overedge stitches along the two sides and about one end of abutton-hole and to relatively change the positions of the stitch-forming mechanism, throat, and workclamp, to effect the automatic production of a series of stitches across the small end of the buttonhole exceeding in length the stitches along either side of said button-hole, and to constitute a bar therefor; and devices to automatically stop the machine at the comple- 'button-hole; and devices to automatically actuate said parts for the production of a series of overedge stitches along the two sides and about one end of a button-hole and to relatively change the positions of the stitchforming mechanism, throat, and work-clamp,

to effect the automatic production of a series of stitches across the small end of the buttonhole which shall exceedin length the stitches along either side the said button-hole, to thus constitute a bar therefor, substantially as described. Y

L In a machine for sewing button-holes, the following instrumentalities, viZz-a workclamp; a stitch-forming mechanism; a throatplate; devices to relatively actuate the workclamp and stitch-forming mechanism and to rotate the stitch forming mechanism and throat-plate to effect the production of a series of overedge stitches, those about the eye radiating; a clutch co-operating with the actuating shaft of the stitch-forming mechanism; a rotating cam; and devices intermediate said cam and clutch, and acted upon by said cam in its rotation to automaticallyeffect the stopping of the stitch-forming mechanism at the completion of the stitching of the buttonhole, substantially as described. l

5. In a sewing lmachine, the following instrumentalities, vizz-an eye-pointed needle above the work-plate; complemental stitchforming mechanism below the work-plate, both mounted in a frame containing mechanism for actuating the same to form stitches; a throat-plate; a bed-plate or frame; its attached Work clamp; devices to relatively move the said stitch-forming mechanism and work-clamp to stitch the straight sides and about the end of a button-hole; and devices to impart to the needle-bar and needle increased lateral throw and at the same time move the throat-plate laterally during the barring of a button-hole, substantially as described.

G. In a machine for sewing button-holes, stitch-forming devices including` a laterally movable needle-bar and needle; awork-clamp and a throat-plate; combined with devices to change the relative positions of the said throat-plate, needle and clamp in the direction of the length of the button-hole, and to automatically move the said throatplate transversely to the length of the button-hole when at the small end of the said hole and during the barring of the same, substantially as described.

7. In a machine for sewing button-holes, stitch-forming mechanism; a clutch co-operating with the shaft for actuating the stitchforming mechanism; and a rotating cam surface and intermediate devices between said cam surface and clutch, said intermediate devices being directly actuated by said cam surface to automatically effect the operative engagement of the clutch and start the stitchforming mechanism for the commencement of va button-hole; and a device to actnate. said intermediate devices in the opposite direction at the completion of a button-hole, substantially as described.

S. A button-hole sewing machine, containing the following instrumentalities, vizz-a work-clamp; a throat; stitch-forming `mechanism; means to rotate the said stitch-forming mechanism while stitching about the curved end of a button-hole; and devices to automatically actuate said parts for the production of a series of overedge stitches along the two sides and about one end of a buttonhole, and to relatively change the positions of the stitch-forming mechanism, throat, and work-clamp, to effect the automatic production of a series of stitches across the small end of the button-hole exceeding in length the stitches along eithei` side the said buttonhole, and to constitute a bar therefor; and devices to automatically stop the machine at the completion of the barring operation, substantially as described.

9. In a machine for sewing button-holes, a work-clamp, a needle throat-plate; a needlebar, a connected eye-pointed needle, complemental stitch-forming mechanism, devices to reciprocate said needle in the direction ofits length, and to also move it laterally with relation to the needle throat whereby the needle at one descent enters the button-hole slit and at the next descent enters the material for the depth stitch, and to rotate the same to stitch radiating stitches about the eye, combined with devices to automatically increase the relative lateral change of position between the said throat-plate and needle as the barring stitches are being made at vthe small end of the button-hole, for the purposes set forth.

l0. In a sewing machine, the following instrumentalities, vizz--an eye-pointed needle above the work-plate; and complemental stitch-forming mechanism below the workplate both mounted in a frame containing mechanism for actuating the same to form stitches; a bed-plate or frame; its attached work-clamp; devices to change the relative positions of the said stitch-forming mechanism and work-clamp to stitch the straight sides and about the end of a button-hole, devices to impart to the needle-bar and needle increased lateral throw, and at the same time move the throat-plate laterally during the barring of a button-hole; a clutch to determine the starting and stopping of the sliding action of the stitch-forming mechanism; a lever to control said clutch; a rotating cam,and devices between said cam and said lever to enable the latter to effect the stopping of the stitching action of the stitch-forming mechanism at the TIO completion of the last end of a button-hole, substantially as described.

11. In a button-hole sewing machine, a rotating case; a needle-bar therein having a needle; means to reciprocate the'needle-bar longitudinally; and means cooperating with the said needle-bar and case to move the needle-bar laterally `within the said case, substantially as described.

` 12. In a button-hole sewing machine, a bedplate; a movable frame thereon; means to move it; the needle-bar carried by the said frame; means to move the needlebar longitudinally and also laterally with relation to said frame during the overstitching along the straight sides of the button-hole and aboutits eye; a looper carried by the said frame,

and means to move the looper, combined with a throat-plate and cloth clamp, to operate, substantially as described.

13. In a button-hole sewing or over-seaming machine, a throat-plate; a reciprocating needle-bar having an attached needle; and means to vibratexthe needle-bar laterally, combinedwith a looper having a point h4 and heel h3; and with means to move the said looper, to operate, substantially as described.

14. The combination, in a single-thread button-hole sewing machine, of the following instrumentalities, vizz--a reciprocating needle.- bar provided with an eye-pointed needle; a throat-plate; a non-thread carrying looper having a point h4 and heel h3, and a loopspreader glo, substantially as described, to act upon a loop of thread and spread it between the looper and the under side of the throatplate for the entrance of the needle, substantially as described. 15. In a button-hole or over-seaming machine, a needle; a needle-bar; and means to reciprocate the said bar longitudinally and move it laterally as described; and feeding mechanism, combined with the herein described double-acting looper having a point h4 at one end and a pointed heel h3 at its opposite end', the said point and heel being directed v away from each other; and means to actuate the said looper, whereby the point h4 takes the loop of needle thread when the looper is moving forward, and the heel h3 takes the second loop of needle thread when the looper makes the return stroke, the loop of needle t-hread taken by the said point being drawn through the last previous loop taken by the heel and held thereon until the point takes a second loop of thread from the needle, substantiallyas described.

l 16.,In. a bnttonhole stitching machine, a bed-plate; the framed thereon having a throatplate; means to move the said frame longitudinally; and a stitch-forming mechanism carried by the said frame, it including a needlebar having not only a motion of reciprocation but also a lateral movement, which is automatically increased immediately after the last side of the button-hole has been stitched,

combined with meansfwhereby the said frame carrying the said stitch-forming mechanism is moved laterally in a direction opposite that in which the lateral throw of the needle-bar is increased, to thus enable the small end of the button-hole slit to be barred by stitches extending from the outer side to the outer side ot' the over-seaming stitch at both sides of the button-hole slit, substantially as described.

17. In a button-hole stitching machine, the

shaft 71 having an arm 70; the frame ct; base i mechanism; and a cam-wheelj provided with a 'cam-ring n2@ and a pin nil, combined with a spring to hold oneof the said arms against that end of the said pin most distant from the cam-ring, whereby the said cam-ring is enabled to operate the said rock-shaft at the proper time for the purpose set forth, substantially as described.

19. A needle-bar; means to operate it; the carriage (1.14; means to rotate it; and a slide block or guide for the needle-bar made Inovable therein transversely to the direction of movement of the needle-bar, combined with means to automatically alter the length of the stroke of the said slide block, to thus vary the lateral throw of the slide block and of the needle-bar, substantially as described.

20. In a button-hole sewing machine, the stitch frame d; a needle-bar; a needle carried by it; the casing dlt; the slide dw; and the slide block therein,in which the needle-bar reciprocates, combined with means, substan- `tially as described, to operate the said casing and slide, for the purpose set forth.

21. In a button-'hole sewing machine the following instrumentalities, viz :-a stitchframe; a clamp-frame; stitch-forming mechanism consisting of an eye-pointed needle located at one side of the horizontal plane occupied by the clam p-frame; and a com plemental mechanism co-operating with the said needle to form stitches and located at the opposite a side of the horizontal plane occupied by the clamp frame; devices to rotate the stitch-forming devices and the throat-plate co-operating therewith with relation to the clamp-frame, and to move the needle-bar laterally with relation to the length of the button-hole slit, while barring the small end thereof, and de'- Vices to changethe relative positions of said stitch-frame and clamp-frame with relation not only to the length of the button-holeslit but to change the relative positions of the IOO IIO

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clamp-frame and throatof the stitchforming mechanism laterally with relation to the longitudinal center of the button-hole to provide for stitching the enlarged eye end thereof, substantially as described.

22. n a button-hole stitching and barring machine, the combination of the following instrumentalities, vizi-*a needle, and complemental stitch-forming mechanism; means for operating said stitch-forming mechanism; a work-clamp; vactuating devices for changing the relative positions of the workclamp and the stitch-forming mechanism, whereby the two straight sides and the eye of a button-hole are overstitched, the eye by radiating stitches, and automatic stitclradjusting mechanism for increasing the length of the stitches upon the completion of the over-stitching, whereby the button-hole is overstitched and the end of the button-hole is barred by stitches of greater length than the over-edge vstitches extending at right angles to the length of the buttonhole, and by one continuous automatic operation, as set forth. 1

23. In a machine for sewing button-holes, a clamp-frame; a work-clamp; a stitchframe; stitch-forming mechanism carried thereby;

actuating mechanism for said stitch-forming mechanism; two cams to produce relative longitudinal and lateral, and combined longitudinal and lateral movement of said frame;l

length of the button-hole being in one andv then in a reverse direction; a clutch co-operating with said actuating mechanism; a third rotating cam, and devices intermediate said third cam and clutch and acted upon by said third cam in its rotation to automatically effect the stopping .of the stitch-form: ing mechanism at a predetermined period, substantially as described.

24. In a machine for sewing button-holes, a clamp-frame; a work-clamp; a cutting mechanism to automatically cut the work held in said clamp; a stitch-frame; a stitch-forming mechanism supported therein; actuating mechanism for said stitch-forming mechanism; two cams to produce relative 1ongitudinal and lateral, and combined longitudinal and lateral movement between said frames, one of said cams controlling the said relative longitudinal movement according to the length of the button-hole, and the other the lateral movement according to the width of the eye end of the button-hole, both cams together controlling the curve of the eye, the longitudinal movement for the length of the button-hole being in one and then in a reverse direction; a clutch co-operating with` the actuating mechanism for the said stitchforming mechanism; a third rotating cam,

hole just Worked and while yet held in thev clamp, barring stitches exceeding in length the stitches along either side of the worked button-hole, and automatic devices to stop the relative longitudinal movement between the work-clamp and stitch-forming mechanism prior to the barring operation, and auto` matic devices to thereafter stop the stitching at the completion of the barring operation, to operate, substantially as described.

26. An organized button-hole stitching machine containing the following instrumentalities, viZ:-a stitch-frame; stitch-forming mechanism carried thereby;` a clamp-frame; a work-clamp; button-hole cutting mechanism, and devices under the control of the machine shaft to automatically actuate the said parts in the following order after closing the work-clamp, viz:--close the cutting mechanism to cut al slit in the material held in the work clamp, spread the button -hole slit, change the relative positions of the work clamp and stitch-forming mechanism to en able the needle thereof to penetrate the ma terial close to the cut edge of the button-hole; start into stitching operation the stitch-formt ing mechanism; change the relative positions of the stitch-forming mechanism and workclamp to enable the stitch-forming mechanism to overstitch the sides and enlarged eye of the button-hole slit with radiating stitches, bar

the small end of the button-hole slit while yet held in the work-clamp, and devices to effect the stopping of the stitching operation immediately after completion of the said bar, substantially as described.

27. An organized button-hole stitching machine, containing the followinginstrumentalities, vizz-a stitch frame; stitchforming mechanism carried thereby; a clamp-frame; a work-clamp; button-hole cutting mechanism, and devices under the control of the machine shaft to automatically actuate the said parts in the following order after closing the work-clamp, viz:close the cutting mechanism to cut a slit in the material held in the Work clamp; spread the button-hole slit, change the relative positions of the workclamp and stitch-forming mechanism to enable the needle thereof to penetrate the material close to the cut edge of the button-hole; start into stitching operation the stitch-forming mechanism; change the relative positions of the stitch-forming mechanism and work- IOC reg

clamp to enable the stitch-forming mechanism to overstitch the sides and enlarged eye of the button-hole slit with radiating stitches, bar

the small end of the button-hole slit while yet held in the work-clamp; devices to effect the stopping of the stitching operation immediately after completion of the said bar, and devices to automatically open the work-clamp after the completion of said bar, substantially as described.

28. In a machine for sewing button-holes, a

' worlcclamp, cutting mechanism to automatically cut the work heldin said clamp; automatic spreading mechanism to spread said cut I5 button-hole; a stitch-forming mechanism, and actuating devices including two cams to effect a combined longitudinal and lateral movement between said work-clamp and stitch-forming mechanism for the production of a series of overed ge stitches along the sides and about the eyed end of the button-hole, a clutch co-operating with said actuating devices; a third rotating cam, and devices intermediate said third cam and clutch, and acted upon by said third cam in its rotation to automatically effect the stopping of the stitch-forming mechanism at a predetermined period, substantially as described.

29. In a button-hole stitching and barring machine the combination of the following instrumentalities,'viz:a needle, and complemental stitch-forming mechanism; means for operating said stitch-forming mechanism; a work-clamp; actuating devices for changing the relative positions of the work-clamp and the stitch-forming mechanism, whereby the two straight sides and the eye ot' a buttonhole are overstitched, the eye by radiatingl stitches; devices to suspend the relative lon- 4o gitudinal movements of said parts when the upon the completion of the' over-stitching,

whereby the button'hole is over-stitched and 45 the end of the button-hole is barred by stitches of greater length than theover-edge stitches extending at right angles to the length of the button-hole, and by one continuous automatic operation, as set forth. 5o

30. In a machine for sewing.button-holes, a clamp-frame; a work-clamp; a stitch-frame; stitch-forming mechanism carried thereby; actuating mechanismfor said stitch-forming mechanism; two cams to produce relative longitudinal and lateral, and combined longitudinal and lateral movement of said frame, one of said cams controlling said relative longitudinal movement according to the length of the button-hole, and the other of said cams 6o the lateral movement according to the width of the eye end of the button-hole, both cams together controlling the curve ofthe eye, the longitudinal movement for the length of the button-hole being in one and then in a reverse 6 5 direction; a clutch co-operating with said actuating mechanism; a third rotating cam, and devices intermediate said third cam and clutch and acted. upon by said third cam in its rotation to automatically effect the start- 7o ing and stopping of the stitch forming mechanism at a predetermined period, substantially as described.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in the presence'ot' 75 two subscribing witnesses.

' JOHN REEC'E.

Witnesses:

G. W. GREGORY, F. CUTTER. 

